Wednesday, April 26, 2006
Monday 24th April
Back in civilisation, we did some shopping and prepared for a couple of nights in national parks. We took a drive up to Cape Hillsborough NP and walked through their award-winning boardwalk. Cathy liked the signs which only had 25 words or so - allowing you time to enjoy the sights rather than spending the whole walk reading. Rain precluded any longer walks so we headed off through the canefields to Eungella NP (pronounced "young-galah").
Sunday 23rd April
We are hoping that Cyclone Monica has moved west and taken the rain away from the coast so we are venturing east. The benefits of the rain are the beautiful scenery but the downside are the sandflies, mosquitoes and other flying and biting creatures. After 2 hours of boring bitumen road heading directly east, we found some dirt road and a bush lunch spot wiht only one fly so we could eat outdoors for a change. Sundays are really quiet in these country spots so we continued driving and ended up in Mackay. WE never anticipated driving 690km for the day!
Saturday 22nd April
The plan was to move on today but when we woke, we decided it would be nicer to stay and rest a day beside the pool. We did the grocery shopping in town then walked it all back to the park., The newspaper arrived about 1.30pm so we swam, caught up on the news and backed up many of our photos from the computer. Cathy started reading a new book. We went back to the Qantas museum to see a few exhibits we had missed yesterday and have another Latte at their restaurant.
Friday 21st April
Davd almost couldn't sleep last night as he was so excited about going to the Qantas Founder's museum and it didn't disappoint. We learned all the esrly history of the airline then toured the 747 "City of Bunbury". This culminated in a walk out onto the wing and time to sit in the pilot's seat. I didn't think I'd ever get David out of there! But, after a bite of lunch, we wandered across to the Stockman's Hall of Fame. This too was well set out and very interesting to learn of the early pioneering days in outback Qld.
Thursday 20th April 2006
After an early start from Middleton, we stopped at The Waltzing Matilda Centre in Winton. It was good but not on the same level as the centres we've seen since. On then to Longreach where we found a full street of shops and a supermarket! The CDMA phone worked and we even picked up our first pile of snail mail at the post office (mainly bills!) At the library, we were able to catch up on emails at last and loaded a few days on to the blog. After checking into the caravan park, we refreshed ourselves in their pool and cooked up a delicious green curry.
Thursday, April 20, 2006
Wednesday 19th April
We stocked up on supplies in Birdsville, bought fuel at $1.39/L and headed north. We briefly stopped to see the Cordory station ruins and forged ahead up a well graded gravel road interspersed with bitumen sections - luxury! We stopped at Bedourie for coffee then decided to go on to Boulia. We were travelling so well we decided to head west and were amazed that the desert suddenly turned to green lush fields. We heard afterwards that the road had been under 3 metres of water just a day or so ago and usually this area is a dust bowl. We caught up with a tagalong tour and joined them for a great night at the Middleton Hotel. To camp at Middleton, you just go in and buy a beer then pitch your tent across the road in the "Hilton Hotel". The pub is the only building in Middleton and doubles as the family home with it's own helicopter parked alongside a Cobb and Co coach.
Tuesday 18th April
A spectacular day of varied desert scenery and 4 wheel driving. There was no water in Walkers Crossing but plenty of shady trees alongside the creek so we pulled over to make a sandwich for lunch. WE tend to hide in the back of the troopie for lunch to avoid eating any of out mates the flies. As we left the desert dunes, we crossed some stony desert then joined the Birdsville outer track. It must have recently been graded as it was smooth and wide making the last 130 km of the day a breeze. on our way into Birdsville we saw the empty race track - races are in September. It's like a thriving township in the middle of the desert with bitumen roads, a green grassy oval,a cafe, bakery and gallery. WE headed for the historic pub though and enjoyed a drink before sunset. Inside the pub is a vast collection of bush hats, stubby holders, stickers and cloth badges from everywhere and everyone.
Monday 17th April
Our supposed rest day seeing a few of the local sights necessitated 200km of driving! we are now experts on Burke and Wills having visited their graves and the DIG tree. We were joined by hundreds of our best friends at every stop their little black bodies trying to get into our nose mouth and eyes. Lucky Cathy had bought fly nets before we left. We checked out Cullyamara Waterhole to see if it was a better place to camp but it was too far from the pub. The Russell's were right about the pub meals. As we chatted to a fellow traveler, we found out there were floods ahead on the road we'd planned to go on, so he suggested going to Birdsville via Walkers Crossing. With over 5 months still ahead of us, a few hundred kms of detour seemed like a good idea.
Sunday 16th April
We got sick of South Australia so we went to Cameron Corner to visit Qld and NSW. It was here that we first heard the good news that Hawthorn thrashed Geelong. Cathy sang the Hawks theme song all the way to Innamincka. Crossing the dunes to and from the corner was like riding a roller coaster - lots of fun. Fortunately we didn't have to fill up with fuel there as diesel was $1.70 per litre. It made it feel like a bargain when we filled up at 162.9 in Innamincka. Arriving in Innamincka ("Aus.slang"for tin sheds on the surface of the moon) we finally got a shower and had a coffee so Cathy started to be nice again! She even bought David an Akubra cattleman's hat at the pub where we enjoyed a cooper's sparkling ale. WE camped by the edge of the Cooper Creek at Town Common.
Saturday April 15th 2006
We got up early for the Ridge Top Tour and thought it was just the early rise that made it seem cold so we didn't rug up before heading out on the 41/2 hour tour. big mistake!! Cathy's hypothermic body ended up in the front with the tour guide while David stayed out back beneath a warm woollen blanket. The views were magnificent and we learned a lot about geology. Arkaroola has become one of our first favorite places. Cathy got a tip off about a short cut to get to the road to Innamincka so we headed off after the tour and the short cut was the most interesting bit of road all day. We drove 300km before we saw any sign of life. The tip from the Russell family about staying at Montecollina bore was not so good as the wind was wild, the toilet was blocked and it seemed inhospitable. Fortunately, Cathy had been chatted up by another tour guide who suggested camping under the Coolibah trees at Strzelecki crossing - our first night camping in the bush away from anyone else.
Monday, April 17, 2006
Monday 17th April
Rest Day in Innamincka.....we drove 200+ clicks looking at "local" sights!!! We are now experts on Burke and Wills (google them!!!). Hot with swarms of flies that only go away at night time. Heading onwards to the north. More updates soon.
David and Cathy (getting sick of flies)
Friday, April 14, 2006
Friday 14th April
Today has been a rest day at Arkaroola. We have the bush camping area to ourselves and will prepare for our early morning ridgetop tour tomorrow morning, followed by our departure for the Strzelecki track.
Thursday 13th April
Cathy recalled Brachina Gorge being a beautiful place 25 years agowhen she hiked in on a school bushwalking trip. Global warming, different time of year or the fact we've seen bigger and better since, meant today's visit didn't strike the same note of admiration. Driving was all on gravel roads wiht multiple dry creek crossings so progress was slower - fun to be out bush though. We settled into our bush camp at Arkaroola with time for washing and showers then marvelled at the stars on the night observatory tour. The telescope and knowledgable guide made it quite something.
Wednesday 12th April
Today we travelled by foot up the steeper track to St MAry's Peak. An approaching storm and moss covered rocks helped make the decision to stop at TAnderra Saddle where the views werew still superb. We took the long way back to camp - 18km for the day - and David's feet bear the blisters to prove it. The M2006 volunteers rain poncho and hat kept Cathy dry as steady light rain fell for the next 12 hours.
Tuesday 11th April
Setting out from Burra, we filled up with diesel to avoid the Easter price hike, then drove north to Hawker. Ken Morgan's Wilpena panorama was spectacular (rather like Panorama Guth in Alice Psirngs). His scones with jam and cream were good too. After setting up camp at Wilpena, we took a nice 7km walk into the Pound to the Hills Homestead then up Wangarra lookouts.
Monday 10th April
Since our last blog input at Mildura, we have travelled a long way but Haven't found anywhere to add to our blog with pictures.
mildura to Burra took us through the riverlands of northern Victoria into SA. It was pretty but there were long straight stretches of road with flat plains as afar as the eye could see. We passed the Big Orange at Berri (our 3rd big thing), crossed the Murray ona ferry at Waikerie and took a walk around Burra's quaint antique shops. Cathy is regretting the decision to allow David to buy a big brass taxi horn which he repeatedly honks at her unexpectedly!!
Monday, April 10, 2006
Sunday 9th April 2006
After breakfast, we hit the road and the Oakes went off to church. We discovered the first hotspot at Maccas to download our emails. We had to stop at Manangatang (the name sounded too good to miss out on seeing the town!) so we bought the Sunday Age (David wanted to see pictures of his Cats win). Our trusty travel adviser suggested turning off onto the river track through Hattah Lakes National Park so we finally engaged 4WD. It turned out to be excellent advice, as we stopped in a quiet spot by the Murray for lunch and to take photographs. Someone told me to look out for "big" things along the way so we managed to find the "Big Murray Cod" and the "Big Lizzie". We camped by the river in Mildura. Cathy put her doctoring skills to work stopping our neighbours from bleeding to death!!!
Saturday 8th April 2006
We battled to keep warm through breakfast and resorted to the granny rug on our knees - but the day was clear and warmed up pleasantly to mid 20's. We arrived in Swan Hill in time for lunch with Barry and Suzanne and met their neighbours who seem to have been everywhere, so we got lots of timely tips. In the afternoon we visited a few of the sights of Swan Hill before Suzanne proved she cooks as well as her mother and we tucked into a delicious dinner.
Friday 7th April 2006
We managed to pack up with space to spare, and left Melbourne early afternoon to miss the peak hour traffic. Our first stop was Woodend for coffee and a look at the map to decide where to stay. Maldon took our fancy. The shops were just closing as we had a quick walk (Cathy couldn't buy anything!!) We had our first dinner and Cathy settled down to a book. It was only 5 degrees and a few showers overnight, but we both managed to sleep very well.